From carpets and antiques to cosmetics and cars, Baku’s many malls, boutiques and showrooms have all the luxury brands. The oldest part of the city – Icherisheher (Old City) – is scattered with characterful antiques and souvenir shops, yet hands down the busiest shopping and strolling area is around Nizami Street in the city centre. For a real local experience, though, head to one of several traditional bazaars which are infused with the aromas of fresh produce brought daily from the country’s fertile regions. The city also boasts several contemporary malls (Ganjlik, 28, Port Baku) packed with international brands, coffee shops, cinemas and restaurants.
While weaving and knitting are widespread across Azerbaijan, one place where these closely linked age-old crafts are especially prevalent are the mountain villages of the Gusar region. The inhabitants of these villages – largely formed of Lezgis, an ancient people of the Caucasus Mountains – have been keeping sheep since time immemorial, meaning there’s always been an abundance of wool for local women to make carpets and clothes to keep everyone cosy and warm in winter. Skills and knowledge have been passed down from generation to generation and still today young girls learn to weave and knit from an early age.
One of the Lezgis’ most symbolic products are thick and vibrantly patterned slipper socks called “jorab”, which are worn indoors to keep feet warm in winter and traditionally included in a bride’s dowry. What’s more, these hand-knitted winter warmers make an ideal gift or souvenir which you can buy at the local bazaar in Gusar or even online from outside the country.
The legacy of the Silk Road is still visible in the picturesque village of Basgal, the home of Azerbaijani kelaghayi making. Traditionally worn by Azerbaijani women, kelaghayis are exquisite silk headscarves with patterns made using the batik technique – a method of stamping on hot wax to prevent the dye from colouring the fabric. In the past, silk weaving and kelaghayi making were practised at every household in the village, yet these crafts found themselves on the verge of disappearance by the end of the Soviet period. The revival began in the early 2000s when a kelaghayi factory was established in Basgal, and today a new generation of designers are being inspired by the headscarf’s symbolism and beauty to modernise it and make it fashionable again. Call into the factory for an impromptu lesson in kelaghayi making, then soak up the old-world atmosphere of Basgal’s cobblestone streets.
Once an important trade hub along the Silk Road, Sheki continues to exude a spirit of the past. On the historic trading street named after legendary local writer Mirza Fatali Akhundzade, step into small boutiques and admire the authentic craftsmanship, whether it be witnessing patterns being printed onto the colourful kelaghayi headscarves traditionally worn by Azerbaijani women or decorating clothes and cushions with intricate floral designs using a technique known as takalduz embroidery. Meet talented artisans making pots, papags (a national hat), miniature caskets and national instruments whose skills have been passed down through generations. In the Sheki Fortress, call into the shebeke workshop to see spectacular mosaics being painstakingly composed of thousands of tiny pieces of stained glass held together in wooden lattices of all shapes and sizes.
Baku’s premier business and residential hub, Port Baku, is home to a series of buzzing cafes, restaurants and shops, with plenty of modern architecture to admire here too. The contemporary Port Baku Mall is one of the city’s leading luxury shopping destinations, with an excellent range of high-end international brands including Ralph Lauren, Giorgio Armani, Valentino, Alexander McQueen, Michael Kors and Burberry. Located on the ground floor, the Port Baku Bazar supermarket is popular with travellers and expats for its upmarket stock of food and drink. Nearby is one of the city’s top health and sports centres, The Club, which offers a wide range of classes and facilities, including tennis courts, a climbing wall and golf simulator.
Besides traditional bazaars, you can find excellent organic produce at competitive prices at the Kendden Shehere (Azerbaijani for From Village to City) chain of markets. From Village to City is an innovative agro project launched by the Ministry of Agriculture to bring the country’s best produce to the capital to satisfy local demand while also creating new opportunities for people living in the countryside. The benefit for travellers is that you can get hold of the best local Azerbaijani produce without leaving the city centre. At the store located on Nizami Street you’ll find everything from fruit and veg to fish, meat and dairy produce as well as nuts, dried fruits, sweets, jams and drinks.
Located a little further from the city centre, Yashil Bazaar (Azerbaijani for Green Bazaar) is Baku’s largest food bazaar packed with organic (and often exotic) fruit and veg, herbs and spices, nuts and dried fruits, juices, compotes and jams, as well as local delicacies like caviar and saffron. Strolling from row to row will allow you to experience a world of flavours and aromas from diverse corners of the country. Hence this is one of the most popular food shopping spots among Baku locals. Vendors will be happy to assist and let you try before you buy, but don’t be afraid to haggle over prices. Get ready to experience the hustle and bustle of an Eastern bazaar!
